Oregon Folklore Studies - Works Project Administration
Title: J. HENRY BROWN, AUTOBIOGRAPHY

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J. Henry Brown, Autobiography

Permission to copy granted by Miss Nettle Spencer (in 1939)

I was born at Wilmington, Will County, Illinois, Aug. 4th, 1831. My father
had moved to that State in an early day, and became acquainted with my
mother, Miss Lucinda Cox, whose father Thomas Cox had been a resident for
several years, and who was in fact a pioneer in the portion of Illinois in
which he resided. Father married in 1836, and soon became interested in a
woolen mill and a flouring mill that my grandfather had erected at
Wilmington, a town which he had laid out, and which is now a thriving
little city.

My grandfathers on both sides passed through the various vicissitudes that
befall all early settlers in a new country - and in fact, I sprang from a
pioneer stock - both of my great-grandfathers being pioneers and
participants in the war of 1812 and the Indian wars of the new country in
which they had settled.

The continued reports that were promulgated through the publications of the
day in regard to the then mysterious country--Oregon; their natural
disposition to remove to new countries to better their condition; continual
sickness in their family caused by the undrained swamps which abounded in
that portion of Illinois, determined my grandfather and parents to emigrate
to Oregon. They were unable to dispose of their property for two years, but
finally a gentleman from New York State in the fall of 1846, purchased the
property at a great sacrifice.

Preparations were immediately begun for the long dangerous trip.

In the transfer of property my grandfather could not dispose of a store
that he owned, consequently he determined to purchase wagons and take it
with him, thereby completely circumventing a combination against him of
compelling a disposal of the goods for a nominal price. Teams of four yoke
of oxen each, wagons, necessary fire arms with ample supply of ammunition
and the innumerable articles actually necessary for the trip was purchased
and the day for departure set.

The "Oregon fever" as it was termed, raged fearfully, and the applicants as
drivers for our teams were numerous, so there was no difficulty in making
choice with the understanding that they were to drive teams, stand guard,
and assist in camp duties, for their board and transportation of their
clothing and tools, as most of them were tradesmen of different kinds. It
was found necessary to ship a portion to our rendezvous at St. Joseph,
Missouri, as we were compelled to haul feed for our teams a greater portion
of the way, the winter having just broken up and the roads being almost
impassible.

I remember only a portion of the young men that started with us, but will
remark that the following came through to Salem, Oregon, where our journey
ended; Walter and Thomas Montieth (brothers) Samuel Althouse, Wm. Bosey,
and Mr. Van Vource. Some others who started, gave up the trip on arriving
at St. Joseph as there were rumors rife at that place concerning the Pawnee
Indians, well calculated to discourage the attempts to cross the plains.


Our train consisted of thirteen wagons, and on the morning of March 15,
1847, the teams were hitched and everything being in readiness, leave
takings were exchanged in the streets of Wilmington. Although I was quite
young the scene was indelably fixed upon my mind. Tears were shed by mother
and daughters as they embraced each other for the last time on earth, and the
parting kiss was given as the last token of love from the hearts that knew the
parting was forever. It was as solemn as a funeral, only the actors were in
health, the withdrawal from sight was as irretrivable as the clods upon the
coffin, one portion remained to develop a prosperous State, while these who
left, went to found a glorious State in our Union on the faraway Pacific "and
plant the stars of glory there", the sun-down of one continent; to fulfil a
destiny, the same as the Pilgrims who landed on Plimoth rock. But the final
hour had come, the word was given and the train started on its long, weary six
months of travel and toil. After traveling a few miles we camped, but the
start had been made, and nearly all for the first time in their lives
experienced the novelty of camping.

There was nothing of great interest happened until we arrived at Skunk
river in Iowa, a district of country sparsely settled, but abundantly
supplied with wild honey and turkeys. A family consisting of man, wife and
three grown daughter, had lived there for several years, and subsisted
mostly on game and what little corn and vegetables that were required for
their modest wants. The old gentleman come to our camp and noticed a
cooking stove that had been taken out of one of the wagons to prepare the
evening meal. He went to his cabin immediately and brought his family, who
with great interest made a minute examination of the "new cooking
contrivance." My grandmother taking great pains to show them the construction
of the stove and explain to them how it cooked and baked. When we sat down to
our supper, they were invited to partake, which they accepted. We had biscuits
made of wheat flour, which was to them a great treat, and their admiration
knew no bounds.

We continued our journey without any further incidents and arrived in due
time at St. Joseph, where we remained for several days arranging our loads
for the final start. Our company augmented by Joseph Cox, son of Thomas Cox
and Peter Palley, a son-in-law of Thomas Cox, and Louis Pettyjohn, and
about the 1st of May made a final start. Having only a short time since
come into possession of a journal kept by one of the company, I will draw
upon it for incidents along the trip.

Camp Organization

Immediately upon crossing the Missouri river, we was outside of the
settlements, and no more houses could be seen at that early day, except at
the different trading posts or forts of the four companies. A short
distance from the river we found camp and during the evening an election
was held. Thomas Cox who was the eldest man, and who owned most of the
wagons in the train, was chosen Captain. A few minutes after this necessary
preliminary had been arranged, a stranger rode into camp and stated that he
wished to go to Oregon, and would like to accompany us, if suitable
arrangements could be made. As one of our teamsters had that evening
decided not to make the trip, the stranger was accepted. He gave his name
as Bradshaw and stated that he had been upon the plains considerably and
had followed trapping. I shall have occasion to speak of him again. Our
wagons had been only parked or drove into lines, and the next day he showed us
how to corrall our wagons as follows: After the place had been selected for
the camp, the leading teams stopped at the place designated, and the next
immediately to the rear and quartering, with the forward wheels nearly even
with the hind wheels of the first wagon, and the third wagon assuming the same
position to the second and so on through the train; forming a circle when the
train had all assumed their positions. The teams would not all be inside of
the corral. After they had been unyoked and driven out, the tongues were
chained to preceding wagons, then making a barricade of great strength in
which to keep the stock during the night and to resist an attack by Indians.
The camp fires were built inside where the cooking was done and tents
stretched.

A bivouac of a large train (for other wagons had joined us, and now
numbered 40 wagons), is a very picturesque sight, the white covers of the
wagons and new tents resembled a small village, while the camp-fires shed
their ruddy light on the surrounding darkness with its ever changing hues
and making the increasing darkness still more impenetrable. The female
portion were busy clearing away the remains of the evening meal of
preparing for the early morning breakfast. The men, except those who were
on guard duty would form circles around the fires, smoking and recounting
the incidents of the days travel, singing songs, telling jokes at each
others expense; while in another part of the camp, the violin would enliven
the air with its notes, to which young and agile feet were keeping time in
the merry dance on the soil of the plains, while the boys were marching around
playing soldier, led by a youthful drummer, who pounded with might and main on
a small specimen of that warlike cymbol. Gradually the stock would lie down
and the people retire to dream of home and the dear ones left behind; the camp
would become quiet and the fires grow dimmer until its flickering flames
expired; no sound would be heard except the low talk of the guards as they
made their rounds or the lonesome howl of the prairie wolf as they prowled
around the camp. The position seemed to us strange and the novelty had not yet
been expended.

At an early hour, the camp would be arroused, preparatory for the days
journey. Immediately after breakfast, the cattle would be driven into camp,
then followed a scene of confusion, men and boys running hither and yon,
looking for their oxen, a great many of them not yet broken sufficiently to
be readily yoked, which added greatly to the uproar; the women hastily
packing away cooking utensils, or frantically calling out to some child
that was disposed to get within dangerous proximity to animals heels; all
was hurry and bustle, but finally the teams would be yoked and hitched to
their respective wagons and the word would be given for some family team to
take the lead for the day, which would of course take its place in the rear
the next. The train would soon be on the move stringing along the road with
the loose cattle in the rear. Mr. Bradshaw soon assumed the general
supervision of the movement of the train; while my grandfather enforced his
orders and choose the camp.

There was no particular incident transpired until we arrived at the Big
Blue river, where the first fatal accident happened in a train as we came up
to the banks of that stream. A boy about 8 years old was standing on the wagon
tongue driving, when he lost his balance and fell beneath the wheel, which
crushed his head, causing instant death. The burial took place that night, and
I can recollect the strange sight, as the people stood around with light as
they consigned him to rest with a boot box for a coffin.

In a few days we reached the Platte, and entered the edge of the buffalo
country. The first night we camped upon this stream, we were visited by one
of those thunder storms for which that part of the country is famous. The
day had been very warm, and in the evening about sundown, Mr. Bradshaw
discovered a small black cloud in the west, and immediately ordered 20 men
to saddle horses and remain on them while the rest were securely tied to
the wagons, tents extra pined, the cattle herded closely by horse and
footmen. The storm could now plainly be seen coming by the flashes of
lightening and the rapidly increasing roar of the thunder. It was well that
these precautions had been taken, although not wholly successful. When the
storm struck us, it was quite dark, which of course added to the confusion.
It seemed as if the very elements were at war with each other. The blinding
brightness of lightning as it apparently covered acres, followed
instantaneously by the deafning crash that seemed to shake the earth,
accompanied by large hailstones and a terrific wind, when all combined was
well calculated to throw everything into confusion. Tents were prostrated,
thus increasing the fright of the occupants; cattle bellowing as they
rushed by with the storm; horses struggling franticly to break their
fastenings to the wagons, mingled with the shouting of men, made an hours
experience that can never be forgotten when once endured. But the storm went
by as rapidly as it came, leaving a heavy coating of hail in its track, with
all the cattle gone and the horsemen in pursuit. As the clouds cleared away
and the moon and stars came out, they were enabled to follow and gradually
herd them together, and by 10 o'clock next morning we were again on the move. 

We traveled several days up the Platte. The last morning before we crossed
the river, we were detained over two hours to allow a tremendous herd of
buffaloes to pass across the road about a quarter of a mile ahead of us.
There was at least 500,000 head of these animals, and the thundering noise
they made as they galloped along could be distinctly heard at our camp. The
reason that Bradshaw did not allow us to proceed was that there was often
great danger of losing our live stock. When the herd passed, we went ahead
and arrived at the ford of the Platte and immediately proceeded to cross.
We were compelled to keep the teams constantly moving as it had a quick
sand bottom, and the water so muddy that it was impossible for us to see
into it an inch. As my fathers team had gone about half way cross the
stream, the leaders turned back and came near turning over the wagon
containing the family. My father was compelled to jump out into the stream,
waist deep and very cold and made across along side of the team. He caught
cold, and that night had a chill, which was followed with an attack of the
mountain fever from which he never fully recovered.

A few days afterwards we went through a praire's dog town of at least two
miles in length. I copy the following description by a Naturalist in the
Scientific American: "The Prairie dog ( Cynomys ludovicianus ) of the Missouri
region and westward and southwestward, belong to a genius of American rodents
intermediate between the marmont and prairie squirrels. The animal is about 13
inches long, with a tail 4 inches nine; the color above is redish or cinnamon
brown, with light to the hairs, and a few black ones intermixed; beneath,
brownish white. The cheek pouches are rudamentary, eyes large, ears quite
short. They live in burrows in great numbers, accompanied by rattlesnakes and
ground owls."  The dog generally stands near their holes on their hind feet
and emit a sound something like a small puppy barking; but when approached,
they dart with wonderful agility into their holes uttering a defiant bark.

Our company succeeded in killing several buffalos as we traveled through
their range, but none was allowed to go to waste as it was "jerked" i.e.
dried on sticks over a fire and carried along, making excellent food.

The night that we camped on Black Haw Creek there was a company (known as
the "Blue Wagon Train" for the reason that their wagons covers were made of
blue colored material), camped about 8 miles above us and ahead of us, had
a stampede with disastrous results. The company had corralled their stock
and the guards were preparing to take their stations, when one of them
commenced exploding caps on an Allen revolver preparatory to loading, when
one of the oxen standing near, gave a jump and bellowed, when the whole
herd became panic stricken, making a general rush for the opposite side of
the circle of wagons or corrall, entirely going over the same, and it was
said, that some of the animals actually went over the wagons, crushing
everything beneath them. All the stock, horses, cattle and sheep became
alike stampeded. One child was killed and several other persons more or less
injured; wagons broken considerably; while about a dozen sheep were killed
outright, and other larger animals crippled. The stampeded herd happened to
take the road that led towards our camp, and the first indications that we had
was some of them appearing among us and apparently as wild as any buffalo that
lived upon the surrounding plains. Mr. Bradshaw immediately took in the
situation and ordered out all the men to guard and quiet our stock which began
to grow very uneasy, but we quelled the excitement. In due time some men came
from the other train in pursuit, and gave an exciting account of their
misfortune and asked assistance, which was readily granted. They succeeded in
recovering quite a number before moving. The next day we passed their camp and
saw the effect of the stampede. We learned afterwards that the company did not
succeed in recovering all of their stock, as most probably they became mixed
in some herd of buffaloes.

About a week after this, another train stampeded as we were informed, as
the train was about to start after a short hault at noon. Our informant
stated that a boy was in the act of mounting a horse, when the saddle
turned, throwing the boy and causing the animal to run away, and attempted
to pass between the wagon and the wheel yoke, and frightened the team,
which started on the run, bellowing as they went. This started the other
teams, and in an incredible short time the whole train was dashing over the
plains in spite of all the efforts of the drivers, who of course were left
behind. The women and children jumped or were thrown out, and some of them
severely injured. The frightened oxen did considerable damage to the
wagons, and delayed the train for several days. It is astonishing with what
speed a team of four yoke of oxen can run. Some men assert that they ran as
fast as a team of eight horses could have done, and carried as much
destruction.

The next object of interest that we saw on this long and tedious road, was
what is known as the Chimney Rock, which we had seen for two or three days
before we reached it. This is a sharp pointed rock somewhat resembling an
enormous chimney, as it stands alone in the plains and can be seen for 30 or
40 miles.

The next place of interest is Scotts' Bluff, a good history of which is
given in Palmer's guide.

We arrived at Fort Laramie about June 15th 1847, and remained one day,
where we witnessed the first War Dance. There were about 5,000 Sioux
Indians who were forming an expedition against their hereditary enemy the
Pawnee nation. The evening of July 3rd we arrived at Independence Rock.
This is a solitary granate rock rising out of the level plains about 80
feet high, and about 600 yards long, and half as wide. The rock has
hundreds of names upon it, some cut in its hard surface, but mostly of
paint or tar. As we camped there and celebrated the 4th of July 1846, our
company also added their names, with date c. We have read the names that
had been placed there for years before ours.

The morning of the 5th we started on and passed through the "Devils Gate" a
narrow gap in the mountains, through which runs the Sweet Water. This gap
is very narrow and the walls fully 500 feet high, with only room for the
wagon between the rock and the water. A little boy had died and was buried
only the day before in this narrow road for the purpose of concealment from
the Indians as they dug up all fresh graves for the clothing. By adopting this
mode, the passing teams obliterated all traces, and the dead were allowed to
rest in peace.

July 11th we reached the summit of the Rocky Mountains and passed over it
in a gentle ridge, where the water flowed on one side to the Atlantic and
on the other to the Pacific, the point we so desired to reach. Thus within
a few hundred yards, the waters parted, each to seek its great reservoir on
either side of the continent.

We next came to Bear river, and traveled some two or three days along its
general course. On July 24th my father died, he had about recovered the
attack of fever caused by getting wet in the Platte, but caught cold and
suffered a relapse without any hope of recovery. There was no physician in
our or any available train. We were compelled to travel, and having no
spring wagon along, the roughness of the road, with the heat of the weather
greatly aggregated the disease, and its progress was rapid. He died about
midnight and was buried at sunrise in the morning, the grave being eight feet
deep, for a coffin, same boards of boxes were arranged around as well as could
be, and the grave filled up. Our train of forty wagons passed over it, as did
hundreds of others afterwards who did not know who slept beneath; but his was
not the only grave, there were hundreds of others the same, and when a
depression was observed, they were refilled, and on they passed, not knowing
but the same would be their fate before the journey was ended.

The next place of note that we found was the Soda Springs on Bear river. We
remained at this place half a day. The springs are very numerous, but
having been described so often, it is not necessary to repeat it here.

There had nothing transpired of interest, except that our teams were
beginning to get poor and suffered a great deal from sore feet, and it was
found necessary to lighten up our wagons, a process that was continued for
the rest of the journey by the entire emigration, and many useless articles
that had been hauled for a 1,000 miles were thrown out and left by the side
of the road, as an instance, some one in advance of us, had hauled an
entire weaving loom, --timber and all, as if there was no timber in Oregon.
Our real suffering as an emigration commenced when we arrived in the Snake
river country; barren, rocky, and great scarcity of water. In due time we
arrived at Fort Hall, then owned by the Hudson's Bay Company, but built by
Nath. J. Wyeth, an American. Capt. Grant was in command, and had lived at
that lonesome and desolate place for several years before.

We left here and traveled down Snake river and encountered great difficulty
at times in obtaining water. The river runs in a tremendously deep canyon,
and when in the country above it looked like a ribbon in its great depth
below, and it is a very toilsome job to descend and ascend, and when we
descended to the first crossing the rocks had worn out wagon tires nearly
asunder at the place of contact as they were looked. We were compelled to
ferry the river in our wagon beds, there being no ferry, and the process
was both slow and dangerous.

In three days we arrived at the last crossing of the river, and forded it,
but it was so deep that we were compelled to stretch chains across the
standards and place the wagon beds upon the chains; this weighted the
wagons down while it allowed the water to run with less obstruction, we
also doubled teams and men on each side of each team mounted on horses
drove them on the tortous ford. There was an island which could be reached
without great danger, but the other channel was where the difficulty was
experienced. But the coolness and dexterity of our drivers succeeded in
making the passage without serious accident, except the last wagon loaded
with goods, which ran on a boulder and overturned, but being near the bank
was rescued and the boxes quickly opened and the goods dried without great
damage.

>From here, until we reached the Blue Mountains we were in the hot springs
country, they were met with every day and the water being at a boiling
temperature and many of them emulating like a kettle; often a cat or dog
that was suffering with thirst would in its haste stick its nose into the
spring, withdrawing it instantly with a howl of pain and the skin entirely
removed. This also was a serious matter with us as well as to the animal as
it required care in doctoring them, as often they were much needed.

When we arrived at Powder river, the general topography of the country
changed; valley streams and mountains were covered with timber, the grass
was also better, but the exhausted stock did not seem to recripreate, they
died all along the road, and had been for over 200 miles in our rear. In
crossing the deserts they had laid down and died with wonderful frequency, the
air was so dry that there was not as much smell emitted as is generally
supposed.

When we arrived at the foot of the Blue Mountain it was found necessary to
remain a day or two to allow our stock to rest, but were compelled to guard
our sheep, as the wolves would leave a dead ox or horse for a live sheep
even in the day time. We had no difficulty in crossing the Blue mountains
and the first night we camped in them, the wolves howled so that we could
not hear ourselves talk, but a few well directed shots settled that wild
serenade.

While camped at this place, my grandfather determined to burn a small tar
kilm, as we were out of that necessary article. Near by was a beautiful
grove of young fir. The conversation somehow turned upon the subject of a
railroad being built across the plains. One of the men who had very crude
ideas of the modern mode of transportation and had never seen one (in fact
none of the company had) remarked: "Well when they build it, I'll come here
and make a hundred thousand rails for it out of this grove, Jimeny, won't
they split nice though?" Some of the company of course laughed, but he was
in earnest though.

At the foot of Blue Mountains after we had crossed, we began to hear vague
rumors of trouble with the Cayuse Indians, that they had robbed some trains
etc., which was confirmed the next day by a letter written by a victim, who
gave it to an Indian to show to all immigrants and to be compensated by each
train giving the said Indian a shirt or two for his trouble or rather hire. A
vigorous military discipline was now enforced and on the part of the men
readily assented to. The first night we camped upon the Umatilla river a young
Cayuse chiefcame to our camp and took a great fancy to one of my Aunts, a
handsome young lady of 18 years of age, and said he wanted to buy her. Her
mother who supposed it was only a joke, said he might have her in the morning
for 150 horses, and he said he would give it. The next morning he and about a
dozen other Indians drove at least 250 head of Cayuse ponies up near the camp
and came in to claim his "white squaw" as he called her. He was told that
white people did not sell their women, and it was only a joke, at this his
companions commenced to laugh at him, and he became very angry and insisted
upon taking her away, saying he would give the whole band. The joke now began
to assume a very serious aspect, but most of the men now arrived at this very
opportune moment, among them Bradshaw, who instantly knew that there was
something wrong and made hasty inquiries. It was soon explained, and he
decided the issue with his characteristic promptness by ordering the Indians
to "puckachu" a universal word on the plains to "leave." This they refused to
do, when Bradshaw who was a good boxer told the men to stand by, knocked the
young chief down, wheeling and knocked another Indian down with his left hand,
and pitched into the rest of them permiscously. The young chief attempted to
draw a knife, but Bradshaw sent him " to grass " as he termed it. The Indians
who never can stand a fist fight, ignominiously fled and mounted their ponies
and rode away, giving expression to some terrible language. Bradshaw
immediately ordered the teams hitched up, the stock all to be driven close to
the train; the women to drive the teams, while the men all mounted and armed,
acted a guard in advance, on each side and rear, while he, himself went on
ahead or kept in the rear as the character of the country changed favorable to
an Indian attack.

After we had traveled about two hours, we noticed all at once, about 50
Indians on the top of the hill within a few hundred yards of the road, and
evidently surprised at the preparations made for their reception, as there
is no doubt but they intended to charge us and take the loose stock if
nothing more. The train halted, the men formed themselves between the enemy
and wagons, and for a few minutes awaited the attacks, but they gave some
insulting signs and rode away, and we did not see any more Indians until we
camped on the banks of the Columbia river some eight days afterwards.
Across the river at this place was a large Indian village, and as soon as
we camped, Indians came over being well armed, bringing wood and commenced
to build a fire in the center of our camp, stating that they had come to
camp and trade with us. My grandfather immediately seized a gun and ordered
all the men to arm, which was promptly seconded by Bradshaw, who
immediately placed himself at the head of the men, forming them in a line
between the Indians and the families and immediately advanced the Indians
who quickly divined the intentions of the white and commenced stringing
their bows, and bringing their guns to bear upon us. For a moment or so
there was imminent danger of bloodshed, when the ominous silence was broken
by Bradshaw's clear ringing voice who said "puckachu"--clear out-and
ordered the line forward, himself in advance.

The Indians remained in sullen silence until the men came within a few feet
of them, then slowly began to withdraw, they were pressed to the river bank
and got into their canoes and started across the river Columbia when about 200
yards distant, an Indian arose in his canoe and shot an arrow at the men which
fell near Bradshaw's feet, and it was quite an effort on his part to keep the
men from firing a volley at them.

The guard was doubled that night, but we were not molested. The next
morning we left a wagon and when out of camp about a quarter of a mile, the
Indians ran it into the river, as they had previously crossed as we started
on the days journey. Bradshaw said we made a very narrow escape as the
Indians outnumbered us five to one, and that they would rob if not murder
the next train that camped there. We afterwards heard that on the next
night a much larger train was robbed but none were killed.

The day we left camp last spoken of, three Indians rode up to a man by the
name of Fox and took off his hat, and when he tried to recover it, drew
their arrows upon him and rode away as he was some little distance behind
the train. The same afternoon a man by the name of J. H. Ballenger, *
lagged behind with his team against the positive orders, and when about a
quarter of a mile from us, the Indians suddenly surrounded his wagon and
commenced to help themselves out of his wagon. The old man possessed a
sabre that he had obtained in the war of 1812, with which he began cutting
the sage brush at a furious rate, as the same time talking rapidly in
broken English (he being German) what he would do. The Indians laughed
heartily at his antics, while Mrs. Ballenger added to the scene by lustily
applying the whip to all of the savages who came within reach of her
muscular arm, Bradshaw, who had been greatly annoyed at the perverse
actions of Ballenger had rode back to ascertain whether he had caught up
with the train; saw at first glance what was being transacted, and calling
to some of the men, started at the top of his horses speed to relieve them.
He

*This Ballenger, as our ancestors called them but later they were called
Bellenger, was the grandfather of C. B. Bellenger who became U. S. Dist.
Judge for Oregon under Cleveland's first administration. Judge C. B.
Bellenger was a regent of the University of Oregon for years, suddenly dashed
among the Indians, using an Indian whip, as Ballenger afterwards said
"miscellaneously" on them, knocking them right and left, without regard to age
or condition, before the Indians could recover from their surprise, the guard
numbering some 20 men arrived, and the marauding band fled precepitately, and
when away some distance fired upon the men, which was returned by two or three
and an Indian shot in the leg.

The boys soon re-loaded the wagon and hurried the team up to the train,
while the excited old gentleman kept up a perfect stream of talk, and
demonstrating his ability in decapitating heads by slashing sage brush as
he walked along. Mrs. B, kneeling in the wagon, was vociferously engaged in
prayer in old camp meeting style, as Bradshaw said "in a dozen different
languages, and that the Almighty would need an interpreter." The boys
always declared that Ballenger had cut down a quarter of an acre of brush;
and run many a joke the remainder of the journey - employing him to clear
land for them when they arrived in the Valley. This was the last Indian
trouble that we had, but Ballenger always kept up with the train.

There was nothing of great interest transpired until we reached Barlow's
gate, east end of the wagon road across the Cascade Mountains, passing near
and south of Mt. Hood. We arrived at this place about the 1st of October,
and camped for the night preparatory for the attempt next morning. We had
not had any rain up to this time, but by morning it came down very heavily
and continued until we emerged into the valley on the other side 16 days
afterwards. The first day we passed what seemed to us an incredible number
of dead stock, but it was merely the indications of the hecatombs of live
property that had struggled so far to miserably perish through the combined
influence of scaricity of grass, chilling rains and deep mud. The road was
simply a ravine--nothing more--cut through a tremedous forest, very narrow,
stumps so high that wagons could scarcely pass over them, while the swamps and
creeks if bridged at all, were loose poles that would slide about, letting the
teams legs through or the wagons down into the mud, causing delay, injury of
stock and decided peral of those who attempted to ride. The cold, insinuating
rain and sleet was continuous.

On the second day our stock began to die rapidly, and we counted 13 yoke
that died the second night. The third day we arrived at the brink of the
far famed Laurel Hill, and is now historic--with all the hills or mountains
that we had heretofore encountered and surmounted, this was the most
appauling. At least one eighth of a mile down and remarkably steep, cut a
portion of the way on the steep side of the mountains, overhanging a
yawning abiss of unknown depth; the road-way which had been constructed
only wide enough for a wagon to pass, with quite a stream of ice cold water
flowing down the same. We looked in dismay and the cattle seemed to moan in
distress. But others had descended so must we. The first thing to be done
was to unhitch all the teams, except the wheel yoke and send them down
first, also the women and children; then cut small fir trees about six
inches in diameter, cutting the branches off leaving them about a foot long
on the trunk, chain them top first to the kind of axel of each wagon,
rought lock both wheels (i.e. that the knot of the chain will rest on the
ground where the wheel first comes in contact, making the greatest amount of
resistance), then stock, the yoke of oxen on the tongue were merely to guide
the wagon. Then about half way down, the rode made a short turn, and the water
had cut away the side of the road so much, that it was so steep as to be
impossible for a wagon to make the turn without going over into the canyon
below. One wagon had gone over that day as a notice on a stick in tie bank
said, and the undoubted signs were there. The men passed ropes over the wagons
to the lower side, the other end around trees above the road and slacked away
as required by the roar and hauled taut on the front ropes as the wagon passed
around the point where the road was safe. This was called "snubbing" but not
intended as is generally understood to mean a treating with contempt. But we
succeeded in passing the whole train over this place and down the hill by the
time it was dark. This particular hill was considered to be the worst part of 
our journey of 2000 or more miles. When we arrived at Summit or Mt. Hood
prairie, we encountered a terrific snow storm, but fortunately its fury
abated, or we would have perished before morning. That night about 500 head of
stock perished, (as there were several trains encamped at the same place), and
it was decided to leave all the wagons but three, and return for our goods and
household fixtures with pack animals, and one of my uncles to be left in
charge. While the men were making preparations that day all of the women and
children who were able, turned out to pick what was called Mountain
Huckleberries (whirtte-berries) which grew in great abundance on bushes about
3 feet high, gallons were thus secured, flour sacks scraped, as we were about
out of that necessary article and several large puddings were baked in our
different "Dutch iron ovens." The next day our toilsome journey was resumed,
and was not varied, on continued disasters accompanied all those then
traveling beneath the weeping clouds of the Cascade Mountains. Our stock died
every day, all along on either side and in the road lay dead, the faithfull
oxen in their yokes, horses and mules in harness, while sheep lay scattered
around, but not so large a percentage of the latter. The wagons wheels crushed
the carcases as they unfeelingly rolled over them. On the sixteenth day we
arrived in the valley at the Foster's, and insatiable land shark who settled
there to acquire a competence out of other people's necessity, and misery,
charging ten times the value for vegetables that he well knew they were 
compelled to purchase.

One man who in after years I became well acquainted with and who had
acquired a fortune, lost all of his stock but one yoke of oxen. He packed
one with such things as he could, and mounted his wife, a boy two years old
and an infant child upon the other, abandoning everything else; struck out
for the valley. He overtook us at Fosters, and in that condition, and we
took his wife and children into one of our wagons for the rest of the
journey. When it was decided to leave the train at Mt. Hood prairie, my
grandfather went on to the valley to look up his two brothers who had come
the year before, whom he found settled on Silver Creek near where Silverton
now stands. They not knowing that he was expecting to emigrate did not go out
to meet us, but the next day hired Indians and 60 pack ponies started after
the goods, and in due time arrived with them in good condition.

About the middle (?) of October, 1847, we arrived in Salem, thus finishing
our long-journey of over 2000 miles across the American continent. Salem at
that time was a missionary town, that is, had been laid out a short time
previously by the missionary Board, and was the seat of protestant
education, and only contained three or four houses. My grandfather opened
his store, the first ever there and soon had a thriving business, taking
for pay goods, the currency of the inhabitants--wheat at the value of one
dollar per bushel. For groceries he went to Oregon City, the then emporium
of Oregon, making most of his purchases of Dr. John McLaughlin, and when
that good old man was told that he had brought his store across the plains,
his astonishment knew no bounds, it seemed so incredible that for a time he
was inclined to doubt the statement.

CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY

Oregon at this time was occupied by both Americans and the subjects of
England, represented by the Hudson's Bay Company, who governed their
employees and discharged servants according to their own rules and
regulations. But previous to our coming a Provisional Government Had been
inaugurated by the American element that resided in the Willamette Valley
and the settlers of the Columbia river bottom on the east side of the
river, and had been gradually improved, or rather systematized from year to
year, with Legislature and Gov. Abernethy as Governor, and this government was
maintained until the U. S. Government legalized its acts and created a
Territorial government in 1849. The Americans came here to make permanent
homes, they expected to build a State, by the slow action of numbers, year by
year as they should come across the plains. There was no expectation of gold
mines yielding fabulous wealth and its accompanying anxiety of increasing the
same. But to work, make homes by the labor of their hands, live in peace, rear
their families in the pursuits of industry and care of stock;--erect school
houses, foster education, live under a government not contaminated with
slavery and burdened with heavy taxes. A happy and pastoral people, to realize
the life long dream of living without the vexatious care that surrounded them
at their old homes. They were the Pilgrim fathers of the Pacific coast, but
unlike those of plymouth rock in one respect, as they had not been presented
by monarchical or arbitrary government, nor oppressed by religious fanaticism.
They seemed then and it still does seem that they were chosen to fill one of
the destinies of nations, to accomplish the grandest achievements of modern
emigration of any nation. The advance guard of civilization to the western
shore, to wrest a beautiful country from barbarism; the country was ripe, the
time had come in the evolment of time that it should be occupied by a better
people, one who would cultivate the soil and establish intercourse with the
Asiatic world; the time when the occident and orient should clasp hands across
the ever heaving deep was at hand. Even the heavy population of natives that
settled the Willamette Valley and adjacent districts had mostly disappeared
through the instrumentality of "great sick" or some kind of plague.

The men of the "forties" (from 1840 to 1850) were no common men, they would
have been men in any country; they had been winnowed out of a great nation
- a chosen band. They came as a community with all the necessary
characteristics to establish a well organized government; - this they put
into operation as soon as they arrived; rocked the cradle of infant
Provincial Government; nurtured and trained the rapidly developing youth of
the Territorial Government; and welcomed him as a well developed offspring
in the brotherhood of the State of the Union of the United States. So well
grounded in the equity of justice and loyalty, that Oregon responded to our
country's call in the severe trial of internal war.

These men of "40" were capable of self government, they believed and
practiced justice, bold without rashness, unsuspicious without verdancy,
generous and hospitable to all; the "latchstring" of the door ever hanging
out, the stranger welcomed as a friend, the fugal meal of boil wheat and
pea coffee partaken of by all without fashionable formality. They were
pioneers in fact, their wants but few and the supply at hand, health
abounded and contentment rules unchecked.

Wheat the currency of the country; buckskin the cloth, moccasins for the
feet, fur cap for the head, a blanket with a hole in the middle to pass the
head through and rest upon the shoulders for an overcoat; mounted on a horse
with raw hide covered saddle, wooden stirrup, Spanish spurs, leggings, with
raw hide larriett, you have a partial pen picture of an Oregon pioneer. Free
in action, contented in mind, perfect physical health, at home at anybody's
cabin, God's best specimen - man; the ruler of the world, and a dependent upon
his Creator. A man to prepare the way for higher civilization, a firm believer
in the government of the United States, and would maintain his rights wherever
his lot may be cast.

The murder of Dr. Whitman and family, fell upon the country without
warning, but the call of Governor for volunteers was responded to with
amazing rapidity to the English subject, especially the Hudson's Bay
Company. They councelled making peace, but the descendants of the pioneers
of the Western States determined to give them a lesson of American valor
and efficiency of arms in the hands of pioneers. They went, they fought,
they conquered, and the Indians sued for peace, all within a few months.
The work was short, sharp and complete, a source of amazement to the
Indians and astonishment to the Hudson's Bay Company - who lost prestage
and relinquished their hold on the country and submitted to the fate of
rapidly transpiring events.

But this pastoral and contented state of affairs was suddenly transformed.
Strange rumors came from California, that gold had been discovered in that
country, it could be washed out from the gravel in the river bars, and that
great fortunes could be made in a short time.

The peaceful condition of affairs was dispelled as by magic! Averishousness
developed itself with astonishing rapidity, and all desired to visit this
Eldorado and dig out fortunes. Those who could and had the ready means,
made immediate preparation to go, braving the storms of mountains, the
danger of rapid and deep rivers, swollen by winter rains and snows, for it
was late in the fall when many started. Others who from impecuniosity were
unable to supply themselves, entered into contract to divide equally the
gains if they were outfitted and as a rule they honestly divided the
proceeds. Excitement reigned unbridled, Indian ponies, provisions, picks,
shovels, etc., commanded extraordinary prices, contracts were annulled,
land claims abandoned, and in fact the whole community utterly demoralized;
and in two months, three-fourths of the men of the Territory were on their
way to California, threading the almost unknown trail and forcing their
passage over rivers against hostile Indians. Soon the yellow ore of
Feather, Yuba and American rivers were in circulation in our midst, and in
1850 it was very plentiful, paid out with a lavish hand and so continued
for several years, as if the supply was inexhaustable. Labor rose from one
dollar in 1848 for common labors to $4.00 carpenters from $1.50 to $8 or
more.

The agricultural interests for two or three years utterly abandoned
trading, speculations, "wild cat" enterprises were the rule, fortunes were
made or lost with astonishing rapidity. California in the meantime had
received thousands of cosmopilitan inhabitants from all parts of the world,
and nearly every nation on earth being represented crimes of every description
was perpetrated, there being now law the better portion of the people took the
matter vigorously in hand and Lynch law reigned for a season. The influence of
crime was felt in our Territory; soon robberies and murder became alarmingly
prevalent in our midst, but being better organized, the civil authorities
maintained their ascendancy and executed with success what California was
unable to do.

The discovery of gold brought a different class of people to those of the
"'40"". The '40's were a bold, energetic and indomidable frontiersmen; the
latter, more of a mercantile, more given to developing the resources of the
country, while the former to reclaiming a country - that is--to make it
possible to successfully introduce and establish civilization. The new
class immediately commenced to construct steamboats for inland
transportation, establishing steamship lines from New York to Astoria for
the increase of mail vacilities, carrying of passengers and freight,
establishing intercourse and trade with the natives on the opposite side of
the Pacific ocean, and the population rapidly increased. The spelling is as
the original in the Brancroft Library.

I will now revert to a subject that should have been mentioned before. When
I came to Oregon, there were no mail facilities whatever. We only received
newspapers by the Missionary ships once a year, and letters from friends by
emigrants across the plains, and the war with Mexico had been closed some
six months before we heard of it. It generally required two years to write
and receive a letter and then we paid 50 cents to have the letter carried to
the first postoffice in Missouri by persons returning to the States. When the
P. M. S. S. Co. established their line and crossed the Isthmus, we hailed it
as one of the remarkable achievements of the day; we were then able to hear
from our friends once every three months. The next great step was the overland
mail and telegraph, and finally the completion of the continental railroad,
the acme probably of human progress, and now if there should be a delay of a
few days of a severe blockade, what a howl is set up, conclusively showing the
perverseness of human character at a momentary delay. The first U. S. Mail
that was ever received in Salem was three days coming from Oregon City on a
keel boat, and the day it left that place a gentleman came through on
horseback and told the good news, consequently we were all excitement until it
arrived.